Sunday 25 October 2009

To Wisconsin instead

So, I want to take a break from recapping Egypt. I'll head over to Wisconsin instead, the last place I was at.

A weekend that coincides with Diwali and we decide to pack our bags and set off to (what else) take pictures of the awesome fall colours of the Midwest. I am hoping that we find at least a church that has candles out--I mean Diwali is the festival of lights, right?

So we set off, an hour or two late but never mind, it's a mini vacation :) And we really set off--I mean it was miles and miles (sounds better than kilometres and is probably what the eccentric Americans measure distances in ;) of farmland and quiet. I still can't get over how different travelling in the countryside is in India and the US. I mean, there is not a soul in sight here--no little kids waving to you from the sides of the highway. Just quiet. I don't know how I feel about that--just doesn't seem right. (I think it's homesickness again). But here you travel in a car and could go by without any contact with humanity unless you need the inevitable pit stop at a gas station (read petrol pump). No second class train compartment where you grab seats and protect them from the general category ;)

After about four hours of driving, we reached Waterford, WI, the cheapest hotel town closest to the Kettle Moraine National Park. And instead of a hotel, the GPS (one of the staples here) takes us to a deserted airfield! I think I do that--the only time we went to Springfield (Illinois' state capital and more farmland than town), we got lost! Anyway, went down Church Street and found the hotel. abrupt end but more tomorrow :)

Wednesday 21 October 2009

Les Pyramids

Back after yet another week. The high level of punctuality's probably becoming a regular feature of this blog!

Anyway, so there we were in Giza, next door to Cairo, in the Hotel Les 3 Pyramids. Probably not on the Top 10 list in Trip Advisor but a decent place, nevertheless. Finally, we would get to see the remains of the Pharaohs, and get a glimpse of everything that history books had shoved down our throats ;)

But then, good things always take their own sweet time. We were first taken to the museum of Ramses 2. The guy was so confused, he ended up marrying one of his daughters! I guess all that does deserve a museum of honour ;) The next stop was the step pyramid in Saqquara--the precursor to the Great Pyramids. A little bit like the rough architect's sketch before the final building goes up. A slight detour at a carpet shop and then finally, the pyramids!

One of the biggest names on the Greatest Wonders list, the first is the Pyramid of Cheops, the second, of Khefru, and the third, of Macarenas (sounds very familiar). While our parents very wisely decided not to enter the belly of the beast, my sister and I had the spirit of the explorers upon us. So we went down a steep ramp, just about ready to slip every few steps, pretty sure that we would end up with broken limbs, or die of suffocation in the Pyramid of Macarenas.The scary trek was worth it. Though it's been a few years, I still remember the sense of awe that we felt when we could finally walk around this ancient burial site.

Unfortunately, the Sphinx had closed its doors for the day and we ended up getting pictures of it only from the outside. But then we were never ones to give up early. A bit of sauntering around the shops, and then we were back for the Son et lumière, as the Sphinx came alive to tell us the story of the Pyramids and the Egypt of yore. It was a fascinating show, with the light from the stars above and the mesmerizing voice coming together to take us back into one of the richest periods in the world's history.

More later...

Tuesday 13 October 2009

A Post-it

Just so I don't forget. A friend set me thinking about how it makes perfect economic sense to deny yourself the big bucks and create employment instead. Specially in the Indian context. More later.

Aswan finally!

So two days later and we get to Aswan. Well, it takes two days on the blog. It is just an overnight cruise from Etna to the Dam really. As an aside, I tried researching the Cleopatra reference from my earlier post and well, it's just too confusing! Too many ladies with the same name, marrying their uncles, brothers and so on. Too confusing, so I will let sleeping dogs lie.

Sorry for wandering off... Back to Aswan. The Dam is impressive--I think the closest in India may be the Bhakra Nangal. I mean it feels like a whole big stretch of road which also doubles to harness water power into electricity. I am sure one of those World Bank and other 'global' organization aided miracles in the developing world! (Cynicism courtesy recent reading of World Bank criticism)

Anyway, the point is, the whole structure was huge. Certainly did not feel like something that would simply hold back water. But then, dams are certainly accomplished multi-taskers. Or definitely meant to be. Plus, this one had a special commemorative seal marking USSR-Egypt friendship. I forget but I think the sign included an olive branch (you get the drift...).

Up next was a charming experience--a visit to a Nubian village. Well, charming if you reside in the developed world and quite like the slums back home, if you don't. We took a boat from the modern splendour of the dam to a place, that I can only describe as the exact opposite--home to archaic lifestyles and obvious squalor. The houses resembled the poor houses in the little towns in Haryana and UP that one sees by the side of the highway, while speeding from one city to another. Grimy inhabitants, the purpose of whose existence seemed to be 'being on display'. Far from being citizens with quaint practices, like the century old houses in the Swiss Alps; these Nubians (upper Egyptians who have greater cultural similarities with Sudan than Egypt). Upper and Lower Egypt is nomenclature for ancient Egypt. While Upper corresponds to modern day Egypt south of Cairo, Lower refers to the part north of Cairo!

The grimy village tour done, we were whisked off to dine on Nubian delicacies. Apologies for being one of those pessimists, but I doubt if too many of the Nubian village denizens had ever tasted their 'own' delicacies! As my father pointed out the other day, while foreigners relish Ethiopian food, a huge chunk of that country's population starves.

Before we knew it, our day at Aswan was over. We barely had time to saunter through an Egyptian souk, before we had to board our train back to Giza (Cairo's twin city). Hopefully that comes up tomorrow!

Saturday 10 October 2009

Where Cleopatra visited Egypt

Yes, that's Esna. A small but historically significant town on the cruise route from Luxor to the Aswan Dam. After crossing the barrage named after the town, we made a halt at the town itself. The walk from the pier to the Temple of Esna meandered through tourist targeted 'ethnic' markets. As usual, I have a visual from India to compare it to. Think of the markets in Hampi and you have the spitting image of the markets of Esna. Ofcourse for those of you who have not been to Hampi, tough luck ;)

The temple itself is still an archaeological excavation site. The parts that have been excavated, are like all things Egyptian, awe inspiring. The pillars that support and constitute the remains of the temple seem to soar into the sky, only to be capped by a massive roof. I don't clearly remember which, but either the roof or the pillars have inscriptions on them that tell the story of the temple. Even though I was pretending to pay attention, I am not very sure what exactly the story of the temple is. I THINK it talks about Queen Cleopatra arriving in ancient Egypt with her consort of that time. Well sorry, but I never volunteered a history lesson though I admit it would have made things more interesting :)

After Esna, the ship cruised along overnight till we landed at Aswan Dam. I will try to get there tomorrow :) No promises that I may break!

Thursday 8 October 2009

The stretched 12 hours

That's what I promised when I signed off my last Egypt entry. About a week ago! I was in Luxor at that point, well in terms of writing, at least. Now I am back from Indiana, the fertile American equivalent of the vast expanses of Rajasthan. I am sure I can come up with a better comparison, but just can't think of it now :(

So, back to Luxor. Early the next day we set off for the famed Valley of Kings, Queens and (the not so fortunate) Artists. The complex, like all other things Egyptian that we had seen till then, was huge. While the Valley(s) of Kings and Queens respectively, included towering monuments and artefacts, the Valley of the Artists was much closer to the ground. Almost like burrows built above ground, I remember thinking. Even though it was the end of December, the morning sun was strong over the Valley(s). The perfect time to visit Pharaoh land for sure! After visiting the restored Queen Hatshepshut's temple, we headed back to the hotel.

A little later and Luxor was ready with it's trademark balmy evening. There's something about this place--it just beats every single quaint European city! So, out we went to dinner at a musical restaurant (yeah, that's what it was!). And of all things, they had belly dancing music and an open dance floor. You bet I tried and discovered I am no good at that particular art form ;) But it was good fun and then we had to call it a day.

More tomorrow for sure.

Thursday 1 October 2009

Skipping again

Skipping it again today--a little too much to do. For sure, tomorrow, though :) And that's how I start October!