Tuesday 17 November 2009

Lapsed yet again

Well over 10 days and I decide to take up the proverbial pen again. I guess procrastination and I are really best friends for life!

So, I realized today that pushing the limits while fun, could mean different things to different people. It's not just about uprooting yourself and then deriving a strange satisfaction from injecting yourself into cultures that are pretty different from yours. It could be about pushing boundaries in art, about challenging the limits that you can see but ofcourse, need to transcend. It could of course mean something completely different too. Things that I couldn't be bothered to think of right now :)

Life's been on a rollercoaster the last few weeks. And that's another thing that I have discovered. While clearly on the unsettling side, rollercoasters are fun. They throw you into situations that you never thought you would be in, like being suspended hundreds of feet above the ground with some firm straps between you and near death. While you are thinking about how this isn't the moment that you would choose to die in, the machine kicks in and you are sent through some of the most nerve wracking experiences of your life. And you do come out. Alive. With a deep sense of unreality and the need of the addict to do it again. Even as you know that you are completely terrified and would run given the chance. But you don't give yourself that chance. I wonder why.

A little more than two more weeks of semester to go. And like I mentioned to somebody yesterday, I don't know whether to be happy it's done or scared that I don't have a page of my proposal written. Another 'if' in my life that's completely structured on that wonderfully stable word :)

More later...

Wednesday 4 November 2009

That itch again

I don't feel like writing about places today. I don't feel like doing any of what I officially started out to do on this blog.

Today, I just want to write.

About that glove that I lost last winter, the one that set me free. About the feeling of ineptitude when I stare into blank faces week after week, trying to convince myself that what I say, makes a connection somewhere. I try, before the bubble bursts. Right in my face. About roads that I have lost to the past. Some by choice, and some perforce. About roads that I see stretch out ahead. That I wonder if I have the strength to traverse.

About human connections. That light up in the most unexpected places. And the ones that collapse unexpectedly. About friends that I make and try my best, to keep. And those that I lose. And the pointlessness of ruing that loss. And in the most annoying academic way, the pointlessness of the pointlessness of ruing that loss. Ha! (Girl Interrupted?)

I want to write about the joy of finding people, places and adventures. Of building from scratch. And then that ever present need to move on. To force closure where none was ever required. I want to write crazy today. Like I said, to stop being official and become the rebel I (never) was (though Ma may disagree :) To forsake routine and go back to Hampi, to Goa, to other frontiers that I haven't touched yet. Soon! If nowhere else, it will be back to the craziness of NYC.

Sunday 25 October 2009

To Wisconsin instead

So, I want to take a break from recapping Egypt. I'll head over to Wisconsin instead, the last place I was at.

A weekend that coincides with Diwali and we decide to pack our bags and set off to (what else) take pictures of the awesome fall colours of the Midwest. I am hoping that we find at least a church that has candles out--I mean Diwali is the festival of lights, right?

So we set off, an hour or two late but never mind, it's a mini vacation :) And we really set off--I mean it was miles and miles (sounds better than kilometres and is probably what the eccentric Americans measure distances in ;) of farmland and quiet. I still can't get over how different travelling in the countryside is in India and the US. I mean, there is not a soul in sight here--no little kids waving to you from the sides of the highway. Just quiet. I don't know how I feel about that--just doesn't seem right. (I think it's homesickness again). But here you travel in a car and could go by without any contact with humanity unless you need the inevitable pit stop at a gas station (read petrol pump). No second class train compartment where you grab seats and protect them from the general category ;)

After about four hours of driving, we reached Waterford, WI, the cheapest hotel town closest to the Kettle Moraine National Park. And instead of a hotel, the GPS (one of the staples here) takes us to a deserted airfield! I think I do that--the only time we went to Springfield (Illinois' state capital and more farmland than town), we got lost! Anyway, went down Church Street and found the hotel. abrupt end but more tomorrow :)

Wednesday 21 October 2009

Les Pyramids

Back after yet another week. The high level of punctuality's probably becoming a regular feature of this blog!

Anyway, so there we were in Giza, next door to Cairo, in the Hotel Les 3 Pyramids. Probably not on the Top 10 list in Trip Advisor but a decent place, nevertheless. Finally, we would get to see the remains of the Pharaohs, and get a glimpse of everything that history books had shoved down our throats ;)

But then, good things always take their own sweet time. We were first taken to the museum of Ramses 2. The guy was so confused, he ended up marrying one of his daughters! I guess all that does deserve a museum of honour ;) The next stop was the step pyramid in Saqquara--the precursor to the Great Pyramids. A little bit like the rough architect's sketch before the final building goes up. A slight detour at a carpet shop and then finally, the pyramids!

One of the biggest names on the Greatest Wonders list, the first is the Pyramid of Cheops, the second, of Khefru, and the third, of Macarenas (sounds very familiar). While our parents very wisely decided not to enter the belly of the beast, my sister and I had the spirit of the explorers upon us. So we went down a steep ramp, just about ready to slip every few steps, pretty sure that we would end up with broken limbs, or die of suffocation in the Pyramid of Macarenas.The scary trek was worth it. Though it's been a few years, I still remember the sense of awe that we felt when we could finally walk around this ancient burial site.

Unfortunately, the Sphinx had closed its doors for the day and we ended up getting pictures of it only from the outside. But then we were never ones to give up early. A bit of sauntering around the shops, and then we were back for the Son et lumière, as the Sphinx came alive to tell us the story of the Pyramids and the Egypt of yore. It was a fascinating show, with the light from the stars above and the mesmerizing voice coming together to take us back into one of the richest periods in the world's history.

More later...

Tuesday 13 October 2009

A Post-it

Just so I don't forget. A friend set me thinking about how it makes perfect economic sense to deny yourself the big bucks and create employment instead. Specially in the Indian context. More later.

Aswan finally!

So two days later and we get to Aswan. Well, it takes two days on the blog. It is just an overnight cruise from Etna to the Dam really. As an aside, I tried researching the Cleopatra reference from my earlier post and well, it's just too confusing! Too many ladies with the same name, marrying their uncles, brothers and so on. Too confusing, so I will let sleeping dogs lie.

Sorry for wandering off... Back to Aswan. The Dam is impressive--I think the closest in India may be the Bhakra Nangal. I mean it feels like a whole big stretch of road which also doubles to harness water power into electricity. I am sure one of those World Bank and other 'global' organization aided miracles in the developing world! (Cynicism courtesy recent reading of World Bank criticism)

Anyway, the point is, the whole structure was huge. Certainly did not feel like something that would simply hold back water. But then, dams are certainly accomplished multi-taskers. Or definitely meant to be. Plus, this one had a special commemorative seal marking USSR-Egypt friendship. I forget but I think the sign included an olive branch (you get the drift...).

Up next was a charming experience--a visit to a Nubian village. Well, charming if you reside in the developed world and quite like the slums back home, if you don't. We took a boat from the modern splendour of the dam to a place, that I can only describe as the exact opposite--home to archaic lifestyles and obvious squalor. The houses resembled the poor houses in the little towns in Haryana and UP that one sees by the side of the highway, while speeding from one city to another. Grimy inhabitants, the purpose of whose existence seemed to be 'being on display'. Far from being citizens with quaint practices, like the century old houses in the Swiss Alps; these Nubians (upper Egyptians who have greater cultural similarities with Sudan than Egypt). Upper and Lower Egypt is nomenclature for ancient Egypt. While Upper corresponds to modern day Egypt south of Cairo, Lower refers to the part north of Cairo!

The grimy village tour done, we were whisked off to dine on Nubian delicacies. Apologies for being one of those pessimists, but I doubt if too many of the Nubian village denizens had ever tasted their 'own' delicacies! As my father pointed out the other day, while foreigners relish Ethiopian food, a huge chunk of that country's population starves.

Before we knew it, our day at Aswan was over. We barely had time to saunter through an Egyptian souk, before we had to board our train back to Giza (Cairo's twin city). Hopefully that comes up tomorrow!

Saturday 10 October 2009

Where Cleopatra visited Egypt

Yes, that's Esna. A small but historically significant town on the cruise route from Luxor to the Aswan Dam. After crossing the barrage named after the town, we made a halt at the town itself. The walk from the pier to the Temple of Esna meandered through tourist targeted 'ethnic' markets. As usual, I have a visual from India to compare it to. Think of the markets in Hampi and you have the spitting image of the markets of Esna. Ofcourse for those of you who have not been to Hampi, tough luck ;)

The temple itself is still an archaeological excavation site. The parts that have been excavated, are like all things Egyptian, awe inspiring. The pillars that support and constitute the remains of the temple seem to soar into the sky, only to be capped by a massive roof. I don't clearly remember which, but either the roof or the pillars have inscriptions on them that tell the story of the temple. Even though I was pretending to pay attention, I am not very sure what exactly the story of the temple is. I THINK it talks about Queen Cleopatra arriving in ancient Egypt with her consort of that time. Well sorry, but I never volunteered a history lesson though I admit it would have made things more interesting :)

After Esna, the ship cruised along overnight till we landed at Aswan Dam. I will try to get there tomorrow :) No promises that I may break!

Thursday 8 October 2009

The stretched 12 hours

That's what I promised when I signed off my last Egypt entry. About a week ago! I was in Luxor at that point, well in terms of writing, at least. Now I am back from Indiana, the fertile American equivalent of the vast expanses of Rajasthan. I am sure I can come up with a better comparison, but just can't think of it now :(

So, back to Luxor. Early the next day we set off for the famed Valley of Kings, Queens and (the not so fortunate) Artists. The complex, like all other things Egyptian that we had seen till then, was huge. While the Valley(s) of Kings and Queens respectively, included towering monuments and artefacts, the Valley of the Artists was much closer to the ground. Almost like burrows built above ground, I remember thinking. Even though it was the end of December, the morning sun was strong over the Valley(s). The perfect time to visit Pharaoh land for sure! After visiting the restored Queen Hatshepshut's temple, we headed back to the hotel.

A little later and Luxor was ready with it's trademark balmy evening. There's something about this place--it just beats every single quaint European city! So, out we went to dinner at a musical restaurant (yeah, that's what it was!). And of all things, they had belly dancing music and an open dance floor. You bet I tried and discovered I am no good at that particular art form ;) But it was good fun and then we had to call it a day.

More tomorrow for sure.

Thursday 1 October 2009

Skipping again

Skipping it again today--a little too much to do. For sure, tomorrow, though :) And that's how I start October!

Wednesday 30 September 2009

Back to the Nile

As soon as we step into the cruise ship, the first thing that we see is a Christmas tree! Well it was a couple of days after Christmas, true, but a tree on a boat (important to remember here, my first time on a cruise ship so I definitely wasn't used to the good life ;)

Freshen up, lunch and off we go. To the Karnak temple this time, a huge complex of ancient temples built by the Pharaohs. As Wikipedia correctly points out, only of the sections, the temples of Amun-re was open to visitors at that time. Walking through it though, you would not feel as if you were missing out anything by not seeing the other sections. The place was simply huge...everything was built to gigantic proportions and we kept feeling our own tiny stature. I think we still have a picture with an Egyptian army man against a backdrop of huge pillars, where we look like denizens of Lilliput land.

Citing extreme tiredness (I forgot to mention that our trip to Egypt had entailed three flight cancellations in three different countries and a resulting delay of a couple of days), we headed back to the boat, snatched a few winks and were out again. And as the sun set, Luxor lit up. We went back to catch a glimpse of the Luxor temple in the setting sun--it was fabulous--the night lights seemed to have added to the natural aura of the complex. A tonga (horse carriage) ride in true tourist style, Egyptian coffee in the Nile market, and the day came to an end. Though we still had some precious time left in magical Luxor and yes, adventures. In less than 12 hours!

Tuesday 29 September 2009

Missed

Very haphazard day today. So pushing today's post to tomorrow :( First lapse so soon into the game!

Monday 28 September 2009

Into Pharaoh country

A brief trip to the Papyrus Institute ( a store pretending to be more;) and we were instructed (in keeping with the pretences) in the art and craft of cobbling together the world famous parchment from the reed with the same name. After about an hour of the education which left me as unskilled in papyrus making as I had been before the lecture, we left equipped with Pharaoh likenesses for our wall frames back home :)

It was funny, but the way our tour was paced (and we have followed that pattern ever since), as soon as we stepped out of a store/museum/hotel, we seemed to step on a super speed highway that rushed us to our next pit stop. So, we climbed aboard our first Egyptian train with a few other passengers. Good news--very comfortable train, bad news--our co passengers and we spoke and understood no common language. Activate your imagination and you will hear the cacophony of voices, with each group trying to make themselves heard above the exact efforts made by the other. Fun overnight trip ;)

The next morning, we land in Luxor, the starting point of our Nile cruise, and I feel like I am in a dream. We walk through a chain of cruise boats to step onto ours and it's almost as if we are wandering through a dream. Tomorrow...

Sunday 27 September 2009

Pressure cooker

That's what Cairo is like...a pressure cooker. The minivan drove us past skyscrapers and aggressive drivers into the crazy city of Cairo. I still remember seeing a woman driving with her complete face veiled! I threw up a prayer for all our sakes, safety, not women's emancipation being on my mind :)

True to style, we were rushed into the Cairo Museum, that houses the treasures from ancient times--New, Middle and Old Egypt. The New does not really mean modern day, it's new in terms of the ancient :) We thronged with the rest of the tourists to catch a glimpse of the famed Tutankhamen's finery and belonging that lie here. It was unbelievable, to actually be somewhere that I had always thought existed only on TV, books or at the most, my history teacher's Egypt video. Of course after all this competing with masses of eager tourists, our stomachs were growling. And what do you do if you are a bunch of non beef eaters in mega beef eating land? You hunt for KFCs like crazy (God bless the Colonel) and then if you are as smart as I am, you tell the counter guys to only give us chicken--NO BEEF or PORK. No point telling me that Arab land kind of frowns upon pork ;) Doesn't register :)

Day 1 in Egypt and panic strikes us--what do we do if we can't buy papyrus. I mean, c'mon all four of us love books and well there's a connection...So next stop, papyrus store. That's tomorrow! (Hunger beckons too hard right now, so gotta go :)

Wandered too far

Today, I realized that travel's not really been the topic for the last couple of posts. But since I am th sole reader at the moment, I pardon this straying away. And tell myself that wandering from the path is the essence of true adventure. And isn't adventure at the heart of travel, after all :)

Well, I feel like going back to Luxor today--my ideal romantic place. Where you walk by the Nile and fall in love, with the easy river and the the town itself, a unique mix of European quaintness (is that a word?) and the chaos of Asia. And of course, Egyptian guys, who chase all 'foreign' girls ;) It's been ages since we went there, more than five years to be precise.

Our first trip out of India as a family and we end up in the land that played host to one of the world's oldest civilizations. No tour organizer Eurotrip for us--my off the beaten track parents believe in things that are far more exciting. Like walking down narrow ramps into the belly of a pyramid or wandering around Cairo in the middle of the night :) If only I was half as adventurous as they are!

Anyway, I still remember landing at Cairo airport, and finding our much mutilated bags after a long wait. Of course the next step was to avoid the rushing porters(?) who wanted to push our trolleys for us. (C'mon, we are from India, we know better!). And rushing into our waiting Minivan--one of the few times in my life when I felt like a VIP although which VIP would step into a minivan...

And then the chaos of Cairo! Coming up tomorrow...that is, later today.

Friday 25 September 2009

Grow incomes and create a market

Well that's how the market flows, right? Or let's rephrase it to 'growing incomes fuel (or create) a market'. When I got a pay hike for the first time, I did go out and buy something that I could not buy with my earlier salary. A simple act that I believe people across the world, perform. Maybe more so in America than many other places, but still, it is common.

Because more money helps you meet existing needs that have not been adressed. Or leads to the creation of needs that you had not felt before. Or simply, the creation of want. Whatever the case, it does propel purchases ranging from those that are long term in nature (paying installments for a house) or immediate (buying that pack of chocolate you had been eyeing for some time). And turns out to be a boon to companies and organizations that sell these products. So, logically, the more people who could buy your product (unless you are a niche marketer and even then you would want to grow your presence in the target segment), the more your company will profit and grow. That is the very reason that Hindustan Lever (of the UniLever family) came up with satchet packs for the rural market in India. People who had the need (or could be led to believe that they had the need) could now consume poducts like washing powder, shampoo and bathing bars that was available in affordable packs. Of course Coca Cola has Chhota Coke now, priced for and aimed at the same market.

If we extend that same logic, wouldn't it be correct to say that if more people earned more money, the market for these and other companies would grow? Therefore, doesn't it make sense to get more people into the 'earning more' bracket. Doesn't it make sense to move people from the Below Poverty Line strata to a level where they can earn a somewhat decent livelihood?

If that is true, then why is it that the second layer of industry that these big players support--the bottling plants, the glass bottle and plastic satchet manufacturers, the contractors, etc.--refuse to raise livelihood wages for labour? The national minimum wage in India for all scheduled employments per day is Rs. 80. But a labourer in the unorganized sector is paid even less (Rs. 80 is roughly equivalent to 1GBP or less than 2USD. Wouldn't it make more sense all around if these Grade 2 companies paid their employees more and enabled them to consume more. Direct impact on increasing sales for the consumer goods companies. This in turn can lead to more business for the Grade 2 companies and the possibility of higher rates. Happiness all around. Or is this too simplistic? If not, how does it make economic sense to pay wages that do not allow for even a basic life for an individual and their family? For one profiteer to make all the money there is.

More tomorrow.

Thursday 24 September 2009

Vanderbilt and Micro initiatives

I stopped at Vanderbilt University yesterday. Well my blog post did, at least. I stopped by in person, on Labor Day weekend when the University was in full session (they do not have a Labor Day holiday). An interesting campus with a definite Southern touch to it (my idea of the South drawn from books and films from the pre-Civil War era), Vanderbilt has the feel of an elite campus to it. Well, I go to UIC, so that should explain it :) But there's more than money to the place.

There are, for example, poverty alleviation programs that the School of Education (Peabody) and the Business School collaborate on. Real programs, that transcend plans on paper and take groups of students to far from posh places in Bangladesh. Classes that focus on innovation in technology and other fields, using varied and in many cases, minimal resources. Opportunities that challenge individuals from one of the world's most priviledged and powerful countries to think and act for the world's poorest. Without disrespecting them.

Two things got me thinking (again) of the power of small. The opportunity to sit through one such class, and a song that a friend sent me about the need to act to save my home state of Assam in India. The song talked about the power of revolution and movements and was very moving. But it led me to question the power of mass movements. Even as I study the decline of the mass in the field of communications, juxtaposed against the growing power of the individual to form world changing communities, I try to think of effectiveness. It's an (absolute) fact that mass movements have changed the world in various ways. So, I do not doubt the effect that they have had. But when I look back at the past decade or so (and I have to admit, my history is nothing to really write home about), I cannot think of one major mass movement that has made the world sit up and take note.

Has something changed? Is it that the small is more in line with our lifestyles now? Is it easier to create and act one small step at a time and collaborate on the basis of those steps than come together in masses and rally for a cause? I certainly don't know if this is true everywhere in the world, but I can see it in myself. In my friends and among the people I know. Is it because we are similar, people with desk jobs or atleast desk orientations, with most of our time spent chained there? People with a desire to make a difference but without going too far out of the way? Even though it does conflict with the traditional ideal of sacrifice being at the heart of doing good, is this an easier and therefore more feasible route for us to adopt? And then, the larger question that I ask myself everyday. If indeed good can only be done selfishly, will we really accomplish anything significant? My studies lead me to believe that maybe we will. Maybe the collective spirit does not die even if fed by selfish fires. And maybe, Ayn Rand was right.

Tomorrow: increase livelihoods and turn the poor into a growth engine. Apologies for sounding politically apalling.

Wednesday 23 September 2009

Nashville and back

Labor Day weekend's was what, a couple of weekends ago? And it seems like ages since I saw Jennifer and was chipped by a wayward beer bottle!

A three plus (almost four day) trip to Nashville is good time to take in the sights, Tastes and of course, the SOUNDS of the Music Capital. Though it is a tough choice between the Tastes and Sounds!

The Honky Tonks of downtown Nashville (which does seem cute and compact compared to Chicago and NY) are a must see. I had visions of a packed row of cars with mad drivers inside, when I first heard the misleading term. However, in a classic case of too much of a good thing... these bars with FREE live (country) music do end up sounding quite like that, especially if you are in a car caught in the traffic jam outside. But step inside, and things change...

Some of the bars (we soberly skipped through three), did have very good performers. The music was a mix; I recognized country and pop and Jennifer pointed out the swing. But then, the idea I think in true country fashion, is to let people have fun, while listening to some great music. Probably not the best place for music purists of any kind! And fun was definitely on the agenda for most of the people--from frat boy and town girl groups to bachelorette parties. Little did I know that the last was going to be my chipped nemesis. But I guess that's inevitable with people headed into marriage, too much beer and unsuspecting prey in shorts (read yours truly;)

And then there's Nashville food, or more appropriately Southern (US) food! Bad for you, your heart and everything else that doctors keep telling you to be careful about. But, oh so good for your taste buds. From corn bread to fried ladysfinger (okra in Americaspeak and like bhendi in besan) and fried eggs, a winner all the way. Well, since porridge and I do not see eye to eye, I wouldn't give top marks to grits, but that's the only not-so-rosy bit. If only there was a way to keep eating all that and keep the added kilos at bay, I would eat it all the time at the Loveless Cafe :)

And then, there's Vanderbilt University. Coming up tomorrow.

Tuesday 22 September 2009

A fresh start

Here I go, turning over the proverbial page and starting anew. Never mind if it is virtual :) The plan ( I always have one...whether it succeeds or fails, is completely another matter) is to share my travel experiences and hopefully help someone somewhere plan their own wandering. From time to time, when our paths intersect, I will use pictures taken by a friend and ace photographer, Arun Negi.

This blog will also be home to some of my other ramblings, as I meander through life even while remaining anchored to a physical location.

Even though I will try to be as current as I can, I am not trying to order my travel experiences chronologically. I ramble and I love stories, so that is what this blog will reflect.

Bon Voyage!

Antara