Wednesday 30 September 2009

Back to the Nile

As soon as we step into the cruise ship, the first thing that we see is a Christmas tree! Well it was a couple of days after Christmas, true, but a tree on a boat (important to remember here, my first time on a cruise ship so I definitely wasn't used to the good life ;)

Freshen up, lunch and off we go. To the Karnak temple this time, a huge complex of ancient temples built by the Pharaohs. As Wikipedia correctly points out, only of the sections, the temples of Amun-re was open to visitors at that time. Walking through it though, you would not feel as if you were missing out anything by not seeing the other sections. The place was simply huge...everything was built to gigantic proportions and we kept feeling our own tiny stature. I think we still have a picture with an Egyptian army man against a backdrop of huge pillars, where we look like denizens of Lilliput land.

Citing extreme tiredness (I forgot to mention that our trip to Egypt had entailed three flight cancellations in three different countries and a resulting delay of a couple of days), we headed back to the boat, snatched a few winks and were out again. And as the sun set, Luxor lit up. We went back to catch a glimpse of the Luxor temple in the setting sun--it was fabulous--the night lights seemed to have added to the natural aura of the complex. A tonga (horse carriage) ride in true tourist style, Egyptian coffee in the Nile market, and the day came to an end. Though we still had some precious time left in magical Luxor and yes, adventures. In less than 12 hours!

Tuesday 29 September 2009

Missed

Very haphazard day today. So pushing today's post to tomorrow :( First lapse so soon into the game!

Monday 28 September 2009

Into Pharaoh country

A brief trip to the Papyrus Institute ( a store pretending to be more;) and we were instructed (in keeping with the pretences) in the art and craft of cobbling together the world famous parchment from the reed with the same name. After about an hour of the education which left me as unskilled in papyrus making as I had been before the lecture, we left equipped with Pharaoh likenesses for our wall frames back home :)

It was funny, but the way our tour was paced (and we have followed that pattern ever since), as soon as we stepped out of a store/museum/hotel, we seemed to step on a super speed highway that rushed us to our next pit stop. So, we climbed aboard our first Egyptian train with a few other passengers. Good news--very comfortable train, bad news--our co passengers and we spoke and understood no common language. Activate your imagination and you will hear the cacophony of voices, with each group trying to make themselves heard above the exact efforts made by the other. Fun overnight trip ;)

The next morning, we land in Luxor, the starting point of our Nile cruise, and I feel like I am in a dream. We walk through a chain of cruise boats to step onto ours and it's almost as if we are wandering through a dream. Tomorrow...

Sunday 27 September 2009

Pressure cooker

That's what Cairo is like...a pressure cooker. The minivan drove us past skyscrapers and aggressive drivers into the crazy city of Cairo. I still remember seeing a woman driving with her complete face veiled! I threw up a prayer for all our sakes, safety, not women's emancipation being on my mind :)

True to style, we were rushed into the Cairo Museum, that houses the treasures from ancient times--New, Middle and Old Egypt. The New does not really mean modern day, it's new in terms of the ancient :) We thronged with the rest of the tourists to catch a glimpse of the famed Tutankhamen's finery and belonging that lie here. It was unbelievable, to actually be somewhere that I had always thought existed only on TV, books or at the most, my history teacher's Egypt video. Of course after all this competing with masses of eager tourists, our stomachs were growling. And what do you do if you are a bunch of non beef eaters in mega beef eating land? You hunt for KFCs like crazy (God bless the Colonel) and then if you are as smart as I am, you tell the counter guys to only give us chicken--NO BEEF or PORK. No point telling me that Arab land kind of frowns upon pork ;) Doesn't register :)

Day 1 in Egypt and panic strikes us--what do we do if we can't buy papyrus. I mean, c'mon all four of us love books and well there's a connection...So next stop, papyrus store. That's tomorrow! (Hunger beckons too hard right now, so gotta go :)

Wandered too far

Today, I realized that travel's not really been the topic for the last couple of posts. But since I am th sole reader at the moment, I pardon this straying away. And tell myself that wandering from the path is the essence of true adventure. And isn't adventure at the heart of travel, after all :)

Well, I feel like going back to Luxor today--my ideal romantic place. Where you walk by the Nile and fall in love, with the easy river and the the town itself, a unique mix of European quaintness (is that a word?) and the chaos of Asia. And of course, Egyptian guys, who chase all 'foreign' girls ;) It's been ages since we went there, more than five years to be precise.

Our first trip out of India as a family and we end up in the land that played host to one of the world's oldest civilizations. No tour organizer Eurotrip for us--my off the beaten track parents believe in things that are far more exciting. Like walking down narrow ramps into the belly of a pyramid or wandering around Cairo in the middle of the night :) If only I was half as adventurous as they are!

Anyway, I still remember landing at Cairo airport, and finding our much mutilated bags after a long wait. Of course the next step was to avoid the rushing porters(?) who wanted to push our trolleys for us. (C'mon, we are from India, we know better!). And rushing into our waiting Minivan--one of the few times in my life when I felt like a VIP although which VIP would step into a minivan...

And then the chaos of Cairo! Coming up tomorrow...that is, later today.

Friday 25 September 2009

Grow incomes and create a market

Well that's how the market flows, right? Or let's rephrase it to 'growing incomes fuel (or create) a market'. When I got a pay hike for the first time, I did go out and buy something that I could not buy with my earlier salary. A simple act that I believe people across the world, perform. Maybe more so in America than many other places, but still, it is common.

Because more money helps you meet existing needs that have not been adressed. Or leads to the creation of needs that you had not felt before. Or simply, the creation of want. Whatever the case, it does propel purchases ranging from those that are long term in nature (paying installments for a house) or immediate (buying that pack of chocolate you had been eyeing for some time). And turns out to be a boon to companies and organizations that sell these products. So, logically, the more people who could buy your product (unless you are a niche marketer and even then you would want to grow your presence in the target segment), the more your company will profit and grow. That is the very reason that Hindustan Lever (of the UniLever family) came up with satchet packs for the rural market in India. People who had the need (or could be led to believe that they had the need) could now consume poducts like washing powder, shampoo and bathing bars that was available in affordable packs. Of course Coca Cola has Chhota Coke now, priced for and aimed at the same market.

If we extend that same logic, wouldn't it be correct to say that if more people earned more money, the market for these and other companies would grow? Therefore, doesn't it make sense to get more people into the 'earning more' bracket. Doesn't it make sense to move people from the Below Poverty Line strata to a level where they can earn a somewhat decent livelihood?

If that is true, then why is it that the second layer of industry that these big players support--the bottling plants, the glass bottle and plastic satchet manufacturers, the contractors, etc.--refuse to raise livelihood wages for labour? The national minimum wage in India for all scheduled employments per day is Rs. 80. But a labourer in the unorganized sector is paid even less (Rs. 80 is roughly equivalent to 1GBP or less than 2USD. Wouldn't it make more sense all around if these Grade 2 companies paid their employees more and enabled them to consume more. Direct impact on increasing sales for the consumer goods companies. This in turn can lead to more business for the Grade 2 companies and the possibility of higher rates. Happiness all around. Or is this too simplistic? If not, how does it make economic sense to pay wages that do not allow for even a basic life for an individual and their family? For one profiteer to make all the money there is.

More tomorrow.

Thursday 24 September 2009

Vanderbilt and Micro initiatives

I stopped at Vanderbilt University yesterday. Well my blog post did, at least. I stopped by in person, on Labor Day weekend when the University was in full session (they do not have a Labor Day holiday). An interesting campus with a definite Southern touch to it (my idea of the South drawn from books and films from the pre-Civil War era), Vanderbilt has the feel of an elite campus to it. Well, I go to UIC, so that should explain it :) But there's more than money to the place.

There are, for example, poverty alleviation programs that the School of Education (Peabody) and the Business School collaborate on. Real programs, that transcend plans on paper and take groups of students to far from posh places in Bangladesh. Classes that focus on innovation in technology and other fields, using varied and in many cases, minimal resources. Opportunities that challenge individuals from one of the world's most priviledged and powerful countries to think and act for the world's poorest. Without disrespecting them.

Two things got me thinking (again) of the power of small. The opportunity to sit through one such class, and a song that a friend sent me about the need to act to save my home state of Assam in India. The song talked about the power of revolution and movements and was very moving. But it led me to question the power of mass movements. Even as I study the decline of the mass in the field of communications, juxtaposed against the growing power of the individual to form world changing communities, I try to think of effectiveness. It's an (absolute) fact that mass movements have changed the world in various ways. So, I do not doubt the effect that they have had. But when I look back at the past decade or so (and I have to admit, my history is nothing to really write home about), I cannot think of one major mass movement that has made the world sit up and take note.

Has something changed? Is it that the small is more in line with our lifestyles now? Is it easier to create and act one small step at a time and collaborate on the basis of those steps than come together in masses and rally for a cause? I certainly don't know if this is true everywhere in the world, but I can see it in myself. In my friends and among the people I know. Is it because we are similar, people with desk jobs or atleast desk orientations, with most of our time spent chained there? People with a desire to make a difference but without going too far out of the way? Even though it does conflict with the traditional ideal of sacrifice being at the heart of doing good, is this an easier and therefore more feasible route for us to adopt? And then, the larger question that I ask myself everyday. If indeed good can only be done selfishly, will we really accomplish anything significant? My studies lead me to believe that maybe we will. Maybe the collective spirit does not die even if fed by selfish fires. And maybe, Ayn Rand was right.

Tomorrow: increase livelihoods and turn the poor into a growth engine. Apologies for sounding politically apalling.

Wednesday 23 September 2009

Nashville and back

Labor Day weekend's was what, a couple of weekends ago? And it seems like ages since I saw Jennifer and was chipped by a wayward beer bottle!

A three plus (almost four day) trip to Nashville is good time to take in the sights, Tastes and of course, the SOUNDS of the Music Capital. Though it is a tough choice between the Tastes and Sounds!

The Honky Tonks of downtown Nashville (which does seem cute and compact compared to Chicago and NY) are a must see. I had visions of a packed row of cars with mad drivers inside, when I first heard the misleading term. However, in a classic case of too much of a good thing... these bars with FREE live (country) music do end up sounding quite like that, especially if you are in a car caught in the traffic jam outside. But step inside, and things change...

Some of the bars (we soberly skipped through three), did have very good performers. The music was a mix; I recognized country and pop and Jennifer pointed out the swing. But then, the idea I think in true country fashion, is to let people have fun, while listening to some great music. Probably not the best place for music purists of any kind! And fun was definitely on the agenda for most of the people--from frat boy and town girl groups to bachelorette parties. Little did I know that the last was going to be my chipped nemesis. But I guess that's inevitable with people headed into marriage, too much beer and unsuspecting prey in shorts (read yours truly;)

And then there's Nashville food, or more appropriately Southern (US) food! Bad for you, your heart and everything else that doctors keep telling you to be careful about. But, oh so good for your taste buds. From corn bread to fried ladysfinger (okra in Americaspeak and like bhendi in besan) and fried eggs, a winner all the way. Well, since porridge and I do not see eye to eye, I wouldn't give top marks to grits, but that's the only not-so-rosy bit. If only there was a way to keep eating all that and keep the added kilos at bay, I would eat it all the time at the Loveless Cafe :)

And then, there's Vanderbilt University. Coming up tomorrow.

Tuesday 22 September 2009

A fresh start

Here I go, turning over the proverbial page and starting anew. Never mind if it is virtual :) The plan ( I always have one...whether it succeeds or fails, is completely another matter) is to share my travel experiences and hopefully help someone somewhere plan their own wandering. From time to time, when our paths intersect, I will use pictures taken by a friend and ace photographer, Arun Negi.

This blog will also be home to some of my other ramblings, as I meander through life even while remaining anchored to a physical location.

Even though I will try to be as current as I can, I am not trying to order my travel experiences chronologically. I ramble and I love stories, so that is what this blog will reflect.

Bon Voyage!

Antara